I finally went to my first real onsen last night with my friend and neighbor, Gretchen. Onsens are private or public hot tubs. They can be in a spa setting, outdoors, in a hotel and usually are heated by volcanic springs. You enjoy almost all of these au naturel no swimming suits allowed but not to worry the women and men are in separate facilities. Many claim to have certain healing properties. Perhaps the one we went to did but I really have no idea since the only things we could read in there were the word "toilet", the temperature of the tubs displayed on the wall, and the label on some soap in the lobby. Anyhow what a great way to spend 2 hours. I definitely see why so many people here partake in these and why they are so popular.
Thankfully Gretchen had been before and knew the ropes because going to a naked public bath in another country can be intimidating. Being Japan there was of course a strict protocol to follow. As soon as you enter you take off your shoes and put them in a locker with a key. You then give your key and $14 to front desk man. He in return hands you a bag with two white towels in it. One of the towels is normal bath size while the other is more hand towel sized except narrower and a bit longer that is the one you use for "modesty" going between the different tubs. Big towel stays in your locker and is used for drying at the end of your visit. With your backside hanging out you proceed to the washroom where you thoroughly scrub your body and wash your hair. The walls of the shower stalls were only waist high and in each stall there was a plastic stool to sit on while you bathed. No doors or curtains, instead each stall had a mirror so you could easily see the person behind you. Modesty is pretty much out the window by now. Once very clean you can proceed to a tub. This onsen had 3 big tubs/pools indoors - one had jets, another was milky and the other just hot. We soaked an lounged until the heat became stifling and then we made our way to the outdoor tubs with a lovely view of the water. Outside had a big communal pool and several individual bath tubs in row and two big round cask like tubs. The cool night air and the hot water is an amazing combination.
By this time we really didn't care at all about the nudity thing. In fact most of the women were using their small towels as pillows or as turbans and not bothering to cover up anything. Some of the women were alone, some came with a friend, there was even a few moms with small kids and as we were leaving a group of women probably in their late 70's were coming in. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the baths and conversation.
If you tired of soaking there was a lavender filled steam room and a room where you lie down on hot rocks like a lizard. We didn't try the latter but maybe next time. Spasso is also a spa/resort and we could have enjoyed facials, massages, lunch etc. Now for these activities you are given a robe to wear. Not really sure how you got about booking a massage but I brought home the brochure and will have my neighbor, Hiroku, translate it for me. (Thank goodness she moved in because my other Japanese neighbor, Mami, is moving in July.)
After you finally get to use the big towel and are dry and dressed you exchange your towels and bag for your shoe locker key. Holding shoes hostage is a pretty good way of insuring no one walks with away with the nifty Spasso bag. Relaxed and happy Gretchen and I head home. I'm so glad she took me. This may very well be one of my favorite things about Japan so far. You can only go to so many shrines before getting tired of them but I don't think I could ever tire of trying different onsens.
Hey Shannon- I love your blog. I got it from the link at the bottom of you e-mail to me. Can't wait to read more when you get back to Japan. Miss you all- Amy
Posted by: Amy Nowak | July 28, 2009 at 01:23 AM